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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.